This is a guide to removing your existing board and fitting the new V2 mainboard. CEL UK holds no responsibility for boards damaged while fitting and would not replace the part under warranty if this is the case. Please read through the guide prior to starting and if this feels like something you would rather not undertake you can purchase a professional install of the board at our facility instead.

Removing the existing mainboard

Prior to starting the installation please eject any loaded Filament and then remove the Print head.

With the print head removed unfasten the belt from the front of the X carriage pulling the right flat side out first

 followed by the curved left side. Then pull the bottom belt all the way through the carriage from the left side.

Stand the robox on its clear right side with its underside facing towards you. Remove the one screw in the centre of the top edge that is facing you.

You can then pull on the thin section of the side panel near the reel alcove to remove.

Pull straight up on the filament feed chute to remove.

Remove the four screws that hold the 2 clips that hold the smooth rail on this side of the machine. 

Remove the 2 screws and washers that hold the gantry to the horizontal rails and unplug the motor lift the left gantry and smooth rail out in one piece.

Remove the screw holding the Extruder(s) in place (Roboxdual owners need to remove both extruders)

Unfasten the extruder ZIF cable (Roboxdual x2 ). There are 2 types of fastener for this cable. If the fastener is all cream/white Pull the cable directly upwards to remove. If the fastener has a black bar with tabs at both ends, pull up on both tabs but the bar will not be removed as it is part of the connector but this should then release the cable. The ZIF cable connectors are extremely fragile so make sure to check that none are damaged on removal/refitting. If damaged replacements can be ordered through the support portal.

Lift the top extruder straight up first if you have a dual machine, reach around to unfasten the knurled Bowden connector to release the bowden tube. Roboxdual owners repeat for the lower extruder.

The X-carriage ZIF is the same as the bar version of the extruder connector, lift the tabs at both sides to free the cable the pull through the slot in the board and frame from the build chamber.

While in the build chamber also unfasten the 24V cable from the carriage to the mainboard at the mainboard end.

Unscrew the 2 earth straps to the earth shield using a set of long nose pliers to hold the nut while using a 2mm hex to unfasten the screws. (some older units do not have this earth shield fitted)

Completely remove the 2 extruder ZIF cables from the board

Unfasten all other connections to the board. On most models the motor cables will be glued in place, a wiggle is usually enough to dislodge the glue and remove if not run a scalpel along the join. Remove the ferrite rings from the motor cables as you will need the extra length of cable when fitting the new board.

The 2 ribbon cables near the bottom of the board also have the connector with the bar that needs to be released so the cable can be removed.

Remove the 2.5mm screw that goes through the power switch housing.

Remove the 4 screws holding the board to the housing 

To remove the mainboard push in on the power socket while lifting the right edge of the mainboard, the board should lift up and out.

Remove the rear screw from the motor mount as this will obstruct the installation and operation of the new board.

Preparing Extruder(s)

The extruders have updated PCB's for use with the new mainboards (the original extruder PCB's will not work with the new mainboards), the following is a guide to swapping the boards.

Remove the 2 cables going to the extruder PCB.

Remove the 2 Screws holding the Motor to the extruder frame.

Drop the motor out of the extruder frame.

There is a pin that goes through the PCB and indexing wheel to keep it secure in the housing, knock this through with a driver (hammer if needed) There is a piece of plastic on the back of some PCB's that can make it hard to see where the pin is located, peel off or just feel and punch through

Lift the PCB and wheel out as one part.

Sit the indexing wheel into the gap in the gate on the PCB and insert into the extruder housing the wheel sits on a little ledge in the cavity so eyeball this as you are inserting. 

Push the pin back through to fix in place

Make sure the raised tab of the housing is sitting in the notch of the PCB (I also like to add a small dap of superglue to hold the PCB to the frame in the places marked)

Insert the motor and fix it in place with the 2 machine screws.

Insert both motor and switch cables into the board.

Repeat for 2nd extruder if you have a Roboxdual.

Installing the New V2 mainboard

Move the SD card from the old board to the new board.

Remove the Earth shield from the old mainboard and attach it to the new mainboard (some very old units do not have this earth shield)

Remove the 2nd from the top and bottom stepstick from the board

Plugin the 2 ribbon cables near the bottom of the board before installing into the housing as these can be awkward to reach later.

Install the new mainboard into the housing at an angle with the power socket lower than the right edge, manoeuvre into place.

Fix the board to the housing with the 4 screws and the longer screw to go through the Power switch housing.

Fit the 2 removed stepsticks (the left side of the stepsticks have red at the top of the legs)

Refit all removed cables (the motor connectors from the bottom of the board to the top are right Z motor, left Z motor, Y motor, X motor) The fan cables look alike, the one with the black mark goes on the right of the 2 sockets.

Refit both earth straps with the screws and nuts through the frame and earth shroud.

Fit both Extruder zif cable into the new pushfit connectors on the board.

Feed the ribbon cable back through the housing and mainboard from the build chamber, the new connector is pushfit, be careful not to damage the contact on this cable when fitting.

Plug the carriage 24v cable back in, the clasp of the connector should face the base of the unit 

Roboxdual owners only - Push the lower bowden tube through the lower hole in the board from the build chamber and attach it to the nozzle of the extruder using the knurled finger connector, lower the extruder into the unit using the rails built into the housing.

Push the Bowden through the top hole in the mainboard from the build chamber and attach it to the nozzle of the extruder using the knurled finger connector. Slide the extruder into the housing using the top set of rails

Secure extruder(s) in place with screw(s)

Attach extruder Zif cables at extruder PCB side by pushing into the connectors.

Holding the left gantry by the motor lower the belt between the 2 rails, then lower the gantry housing into the robox making sure the housing on the threaded motor shaft fits into the peg on the gantry, the gantry housing can then be fully lowered onto the rails and the smooth rail aligned correctly in the frame.

Fix the gantry in place with the 2 machine screws making sure the earth cable is attached to the lower screw.

Fix in place the 2 clips that hold the smooth rail in place

Plug the gantry motor cable back in.

Slide the filament feed guide back into the frame using the slots

Refit the side panel and fix it in place with the one screw on the top edge.

Set the robox in its correct orientation

Feed the belt through the carriage and around the right gantry pulley.

Fix the Belt into the curved tooth slot of the gantry on the left side.

Pull belt tight and slide into the long tooth slot on the right side of the carriage.

Attach print head.

The Robox is now ready for use.